Sunday, January 6, 2013

Ok so, I took apart the top back plate of a second lapdock and started troubleshooting. I did not mess up any of the PCB or wires it seems. I have discovered what the culprit of the non-working screen is!

Here is a video explaining it, followed by photos of some of my troubleshooting process.





 Here with the lapdock lid closed. Screen is OFF

 Here with the lid up the screen is ON
Wired using the external LCD panel and alien HDMI/USB Pigtail to troubleshoot.

I thought to be clever and try this below... no dice. The magnets in the top of the lapdocks LCD have a certain +/- Is my theory... the Keyboard to keyboard magnets will not work.


Underside of the keyboard panel:



Here is the side that would be underneath your right hand:



 Here is the side that would be underneath your left hand:




Next step is to jury rig this SOB to make it think the lid is open!

1 comment:

  1. There are actually 3 magnets behind the bezel of the LCD screen, easily verifiable without taking it apart by sliding a flat head steel screw across the top until a magnet 'sucks' it in. The magnet you show which is one of the two big ones is simply used to hold the lid closed. There is a third smaller magnet to the left of the one you show, that's the one that 'trips' a Hall Effect sensor IC when you close the lid

    Easiest way to make the screen stay on and ignore the lid position is shorting pins 4 and 5 on that purple connector on the main PCB. That should allow you to remove the touchpad and keyboard The power switching to the unit is actually controlled by the CEC ground pin on the lapdock side which tells the lapdock a device is plugged into the HDMI jack and it can turn on. That can be simulated by grounding the CEC ground line on the with a switch.

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